Peter
I got my Mal at 4 months old, poorly socialized from a shelter. Until today when we go for walks he finds everything more interesting than me. All he wants to do is sniff things every 2 meters (i let him sniff sometimes)i tried just feeding him outside, but he shuns his kibble for days, high value treats work. I can get him to do things, but only for seconds as his attention and focus are so poor. He has almost no toy drive (low drive in general). I work him at a club where he does good in obedience with high value treats and ok in Schutzdienst. How do i build more focus/connection outside?
Stefan
Hey Robert, wie geht’s! Mein Hund Carl bleibt sehr oft stehen. I do the leash walking training where I turn around every time he shoots ahead. He’s a 50lbs Black Mouth Cur / Staffy mix and I use a martingale mostly, sometimes a prong collar. The problem is he often stops and drops and I end up pulling him. He does that every time he wants to walk in a different direction. Or once he gets tired of walking back and forth. How would you handle that? Danke!
Karen N
With the help of your videos, I’ve made some real progress with my 2 1/2 year old staffie-mix. Zazz is finally engaging in play. My question is how to help her relax and settle in a down. It was hard to lure her into it, but after a lot practice, she seems to understand what I want her to do. If she doesn’t do it on command, I can say “nope” a couple of times, and she will. I give her the treat slowly,telling her “gooood down”, but she pops up the instant the treat is gone. I’ll keep working on patience on my end of the leash, but I’m wondering if you have other thoughts or suggestions.
Jaxson A
Hi Robert, I have an English Bulldog I am working basic obedience with. I have a specific issue when we go on walks he gets aggresive at the door. I make him wait at the door once opening and on the cue to go out he will try to bite the door or bite me. I have used a muzzle, but want to fix this behavior. This initially only happened on certain doors where he would attack the door when walking through it biting the door, and then redirecting towards us. Now it is near all doors, and sometimes he just jumps at me. It does not seem fear based, but I am at a loss, any advice helps.
Kristy J
Hi Robert! I have 3 German shepherds who are 1 and 2 years old. All of these shepherds have been trained with the basic and advanced commands and still learning more. However, we have two inside cats. The dogs do not chase or attack the cats individually, but as a pack they will.
For a year, we’ve kept the cats upstairs and the dogs downstairs until
we go to bed. However, if at any point we leave the gate open (mostly my son) the dogs will attack the cats. How do I train them as a pack not to attack the cats? They all know the leave it command but they do not listen when they are chasing.
Noelle M
Hi Robert, intact working line 4.5 year old. My GSd will pull because he knows there is a part of our daily walk where he gets to come off leash and run in the woods. I have done the Keohler method in my yard and have not gone back to the place where we used to walk since. Do you have recommendations to stop this excitable pulling? I cannot give him leash pressure across my body bc he is too far ahead. When I turn around, he follows and walks beautifully. But when we turn around again to head in the direction of his favorite place in the walk, he slowly stars to pull forward again and not walk beside me. Thank you!
Daniel W
Hi Robert, thanks again for all the content, I feel so much more confident with my pup now. I watched videos for around a month before picking him up, I really wanted to set him up for success from the get go. My question is regarding when to add commands to actions. I got my pup 3 days ago and I have been luring and shaping movements before every meal, and a few in between, he’s picked everything uo very quickly, he goes down and stays in the down, he will sit when
approaching, he’s really quick. He is 7 1/2 weeks old. When do you think I should add commands to the luring?
Victor
Hi Robert! I rescued an 8-week-old male mutt and have been hand-feeding him for 5 weeks, 3x a day. He had mild food aggression towards me in the first week (not since) but is still food aggressive toward my 4-year-old female mutt. Today I gave him a high-value treat (raw chicken feet), and when my older dog approached, he got tense, growled and barked/tried to bite her. I pulled him by the neck, said ‘No’ firmly, and took the treat. 1) Was this the right way to correct him? And 2) is there a way to help reduce his food aggression toward my older dog?
Vladyslava
Hi Robert! Greetings from my 6-month-old Malinois Jack from Ukraine. As I understand, light physical correction should come after the verbal correction “no” if the dog already knows the correct behavior, through luring and shaping. But in the case of ongoing rules (e.g., not picking up things from the floor, not jumping on people, not stealing food from the table), is it right to always say “no” before physical correction? Or is it better to correct the action immediately without the verbal correction “no,” so the dog doesn’t learn to wait for a marker and just avoids undesirable behavior?
Bill W
I watched your loose leash walking video with Ziggy (Siggy?) and totally understood the point about getting away from constant reward vs correction, and letting the dog respond to the pressure, and learning to eliminate it. I have two GSDs and even with properly fitted prong collars, they do not seem to mind the “pressure” and are happy to go to the end of the leash with pressure. They don’t pull, because then the pressure gets too much, but they’re fine with the line being tight (some pressure). It is hard go keep the leash loose, without waiting till almost at end and giving a pop.
