[Gene]

So, he may be playing too rough as opposed to showing aggression. When the puppy yelps and you remove him if the puppy goes back for more she is fine with it. Just monitor the playing closely. Also, the terrier should sometimes let the puppy pin him/crawl on top. When this is not the case there are certain signs to watch to watch for. Have a slip lead on at all times. For instance, if he follows the puppy across the room with his eyes/head (fixation) that is a correction, “No” pop the lead, he/she knows what it is for. Also, forcing the puppy to move, won’t let the puppy approach you/gets between you and the puppy etc. When it is out right aggression it is dealt with in a more demanding manner. It is “No”, pop, then grab him by the scruff of the neck and get directly in his face and use a stern low tone of voice, like a growl. “Knock it off” and any other descriptive adjectives which you deem appropriate. He needs to understand that that behavior is not tolerated. I didn’t know who is the he or she is.

[Gene]

I would let the interactions continue for short durations, The cat appears to be comfortable with the puppy and the puppy wants to play. As long as there are no signs of aggression, I feel comfortable with them interacting under your supervision. When you begin to see Jax becoming too excited I would end the session as you do not want him to become frustrated. Lure him away with a treat or toy to let him calm down. The cat is something new and interesting to him. Down the road it will probably been there, seen that, done that.

[Gene]

Agree with what Lynn has posted. I am not aware of another way to approach this issue. It is either the crate or the use of a bark collar. Robert had an issue with Mia when she was younger and he used a bark collar.

[Gene]

I would start by watching the videos in the member’s new lesson section. there are about 6/7 videos of Ellen & Mellow, Debra & Murrow, Karl & Jerome these are in pages 1 through 5.

The basic premise is the dog/puppy wants to be with the owner. I would have say about a 20/30ft lead. You begin with a couple of treats then walk away when the dog follows and catches up he gets a treat. When he checks out he gets a pop on the leash and when he looks, you trot backwards “Come! Come! Come! when he catches up he gets a treat. In the videos there are no commands given or corrections given. The slight pop on the leash is just to get the dog’s attention. When he steps toward you trot backwards. These videos are all about having a good time and building a relationship with your dog. Your dog is probably more intense than the one’s in the videos but the process is the same. Robert’s and Jan’s dogs are not fixed. Just keep working on it. It probably will take somewhat longer. I have my dog on about a 40/50ft line and I drop it and let him wander about. I know he will not run away. However, on the recall at times I may have to “Come” 3X. I guess he’s “busy”. It took a while to get to this point.

[Gene]

So what I would try is walk with the leashes in each hand close to your chest/stomach and when you feel a slight pull drop the hand down to give the leash some slack and then pop the leash. Another thing I would do, which maybe is a better choice, is work with the dominant dog alone to curb his pulling. When he gets it the other should follow along.

[Gene]

Sending positive vibes! Wishing you the best.

[Gene]

1) 15/20ft is plenty for walk around a safe area and training, 6ft when you want the pup closer.

2) There are a few videos on the “Leave It” Command. Three most important commands for puppies are…Come…Stay…Leave It, these are life savers.

3) Puppies sleep an average of 14/16hrs a day so he can spend the majority of his time in the crate. Also, they feel safe there and a puppy that is taken out regularly will not pee in his crate unless there is some kind of underlying issue.

4) Use the crate and lose the diaper.

5) Both the Goldendoodle and the puppy will require patience. Yes, train them separately.

Both the Golden and the puppy will require patience. Just follow the videos and have a good time. Don’t expect too much from the older guy at first as this will be a learning experience for him also. Many times people expect an older dog to learn faster and this is not always the case.

Welcome…WOOF! WOOF!

[Gene]

I didn’t get the idea that you were mad at Levi. I got the idea that you were frustrated with yourself. We have all been frustrated with ourselves and the dogs at times and made mistakes. That is why we are here. By bettering ourselves our dogs have a better life.

Listening to your commands 85% of the time is pretty darn good. You can work on his recall around the house, backyard, front yard then down the block, then the park. You have to proof him first with no or very little distractions. I will go out at times in the late afternoon when I know there won’t be many people around walking their dogs. He is on a 40/50ft line and I drop it and we meander around the school/park. Occasionally, when told to come he looks at me like “no I’m busy” so he gets corrected. The point being that this was done over an extended period of time. Stay with the site. Lots of good info. Everyone is always learning but many people on this site have been there done that as they say and can help you along the way. RELAX, just cuddle for a few days,

[Gene]

We were just having a conversation about similar issues the other day. I would go back to square one. You want to build a strong relationship with the dog. I would stop formal training for a couple of weeks except for some basics, sit, stay, leave it. You want the dog to follow you. You want the dog to want to be with you as opposed to sniffing around or whatever. You are more interesting than whatever else is around. Use a long line and treats to encourage the dog to follow. There are no corrections with this exercise. It is all about being exciting and having fun.

When the dog starts to check out just make an abrupt turn and walk the other way. When he follows and catches up, he gets praise and a treat. Checks out again, “Heh” or name, when he looks start and running backwards, “YES! “GOOD BOY!” he will follow, he is having a good time. Lots of praise. When you have to get his attention just one or two light pops to get the dog to look at you.

I would start with these videos..1) All the Basics 2) How Relationship Affects Behavior 3) Karl-The Beginning 4) Mellow-Puppies First Lesson and work on from there.

[Gene]

What you need to do is concentrate on the dogs which are highly adoptable now. The volunteers want to Engage with the dogs. You want the dogs to look at you and follow you. With Engagement you are rebuilding the trust factor in humans that the dogs have lost.

You don’t have to ask the dog for anything at first. Three items I would say to work on are Sit, Down & Recall. Also Leave It if you have the time. Once you have worked with these dogs for a time you can start with the dogs that are becoming stressed time allowing.

Shelters have been at capacity or near capacity I’d say since September. There is only a certain amount of time one can spend with the dogs during the day so the dogs with the best chance of finding a home have to be prioritized.

An example would be a dog that is becoming stressed and needs some one on one time. Should a volunteer go work with a dog with a bite history and doesn’t like kids”. (An exaggeration but an example). The way things are now some dogs that may have had a chance a couple years ago now have to be let go. That’s just the reality of the situation.