[Eric]

You need to FIRMLY correct your dog. Put a prong collar on it, properly, and have a leash attached always. When the dog tries to bite say No then pop the leash. Use firmer pressure each time until it stops

[Luis]

Hi Evelyne:

First of all I think you’re in the right place to learn. But I would advise you to look for a dog trainer who practices IGP sport and meet him in person.

Why? I think you may have now a dog with a high bite Drive.

That’s not bad. But you have to redirect that behaviour.

The boxer race was for a long time working dogs. In the late 30 years they become softer. But now they are breeding again for strong defense dogs.

An aquaintance of mine is competing in IGP sport with very good results in Europe.

This kind of dog needs a different aproach and you have to be stricter and work a little more.

But once you fulfill his biting needs he can be a norma family dog.

Look for the right help. In IGP they’re experts in biting.

Good luck.

[Evelyne]

yes I thank you.

I try to relativize but I’am not used to such problems with dogs. Trainer says it’s my fault.

[Ed]

Is she playing with you? If so that is not bad, it is affections and needs to be redirected. Can you redirect with a toy where both of you play, like a tug toy!

If the trainer told you that you are too soft it does not mean the dog is bad, but in an ideal world you should be able to interrupt a dog’s behavior with body posture or a word. That is harder to teach (the human), but the workaround is to artificially add structure, which is a regulated life for the dog where you control everything.

An ecollar is not necessary the solution. Personally if a dog does something I do not like during play I interrupt play, and that takes care of the issue. Followed by a reassurance that I still love him.

Hope it helps a bit

[Evelyne]

I thank you

No word, no toy is able to stop this behavior, it’s to intense. And sometimes it takes time for me to reach home from garden ! Sometimes fear …..for the moment I try not to be too much hurt !

Affection ? ? hard to believe, excitment ++yes.

Trainer says it’s my fault, I think there is a problem with the dog too ! She is a german one from Munich, fullblooded

[Ed]

A fundamental aspect of the relationship with a dog is respect. When the trainer said it was your fault what did he suggest you do or change?

Fear is a trigger, so that part of the mindset will need to change.

From this conversation it seems that you will need to add structure.

Did you ask Robert for advice in the AMA (member question form) or when he does the live member questions?

Maybe you can have a friend make a short video of these interactions where the problem is surfacing.

[Ed]

In general, the trainer fixes you not the dog. That is, the trainer trains you on how to manage the dog.

[Ed]

You said she was biting your arms and sometimes face. Meaning she is either jumping really or you are coming down at her level, possibly knelling. You also said it is too intense to redirect… a common strategy to eliminate behavior is to not give the dog the opportunity to practice the behavior. I’m guessing that perhaps this is happening as you bend down or kneel. Instead of having the dog start the interaction, try taking the initiative and use a tug toy to play with her (you standing and pulling on the toy). You can also teach her to fetch. Have at least 2 balls that way you do not have to take the ball from her. I seldomly take the toys from my dogs. This is to teach them that the value of play is not in the toy but in me. Maybe you will need to have a dozen balls because she will not give them back or allow you to pick up. It does not really matter now. You are not competing with him/her for the ball, you are adding to the experience.

Perhaps you can give more details or make a video of the interaction. I’m having trouble visualizing what is going on.

[Ed]

Also note that when dogs get very excited they sometimes revert. That is where impulse control comes in. I have a 4 year old male Rottweiler that every 4-6 months gets super happy with me and nibbles on my ear or my face. I say ai and he looks at me with the I’m sorry face. I have a 2-1/2 year old female that likes to take my fingers into her mouth and gently pressure them. She does that where my other dogs would give me a quick lick or a little nose bump. To interact with the world, and by consequence with you using their mouth is natural. Impulse control mitigates that. And a combination of respect and love makes your dog take you seriously. There is an impulse control game that is called take/leave it. You put a treat in your hand, palm up, and when the dog goes for it you say “leave it” and close your hand making a fist before he can take it. Then when he desists you open the hand, still face up showing the treat and repeat. After 2-3 times you say “take it” and this time when the dog comes to get the treat you let it pick it up from your hand. There may be other impulse control games in the site. I would do those in the house when the dog is calm, as opposed to outside where there are more distractions and excitement. Let us know how it goes 🙂

[Ed]

Another impulse control exercise is to ask the dog to sit before eating. You ask sit, they sit, you put the food down, and if they go for it you reinforce the sit or remove the food. Once they remain sat for a few seconds with the food in front of them you release them by saying break. It is a great exercise for impulse control and to reinforce the dynamics of the relationship. Depending on where your relationship with your dog is you may have to make some adjustments, but that is the idea.

[Christine "CeCe"]

Hi Evelyn, I totally agree with the previous commenters. Some dogs have stronger genetics than others. Find someone who really knows how to work with a dog with high drive and use play to set boundaries ~ the trainers that Ivan Balabanov certifies are all great at this! You can find one near you at trainingwithoutconflict.com. I also agree that ecollar, although a great tool, is not the right way to go to correct biting during play. That could have some fallout and could be partially why the behavior is worsening. Hope you find someone that can help you turn the relatioship around!

[Anna]

If I will be on your place, I will not allow her on top of any furniture, I will use crate training, hand feed her all food and teach her calm and good behavior if she wants food or anything else from you. I will not allow her such games which provoke this behavior and I will teach her impulse control. If she will bite or try to bite me inside home, I will leave room and close doors and let her there alone for 10 minutes. Or call her into crate, give her inside some food if she is calm and take her out only in calm state. Dog need to see clear difference between how good it is, if he/she is obedient and how bad it is and priviledges are taken away if they don’t listen.

[Gene]

I am posting based on my thoughts that this is rough play because of boredom or lack of respect as you didn’t say that she had broken the skin. I find it odd that a dog would have this issue after such a long period of time with you as her owner. I feel somewhere along the line that there was an issue with the relationship. So I’m going back to square one. You want to be constantly engaging with the dog. The dog will have a slip lead on at all times when you are present. Let her out in the morning to do her business, let her run around a bit then have her come back in for some engagement by you. Do it in the house so she stays calm. Have her watch you make her meal then hand feed. Also have her follow you to get the food say 5 steps backward. Have her spin around some. Make it fun. She can finish off the meal in the crate. If she eats 2xa day increase to 3x if you can (same amount) so it is an added engagement with your dog. For now I don’t care about obedience. You want the dog to look at you and follow you. You leave the room. “let’s go” she follows she gets a treat. When you get to where you are going say for a glass of water she sits next to you or looks up at you “yes” she gets a treat. Keep her around the house for a few days. When she acts up it is “let’s go” and into the crate. Give her something to do in the crate. This is called “Engagement Training”, all I ask of the dog is to look at me and follow me. Watch the video “Relationship With Your Dog” it is Robert with the Schmoo. Although he is already trained he is constantly looking at Robert he wants to engage. He wants to do something for/with Robert. That is what you are striving for. Getting your dog to engage with you like this starts before training.

[Val]

Agree with suggestions regarding IGP or other sport dog trainer. In the meantime, you will get a long ways by purchasing Ivan Balananov’s cornerstone collection in the Training Without Conflict website. It may seem like a lot of money- but learning how to play with a high drive dog (you have to be fun and competitive) is not easy, nor is getting them to out a toy on command every time. Once you’ve established your authority during play- the biting will stop. The dog will see you as fun but firm parent and respect your boundaries and commands. Using these games (with rules) is how many high drive dogs learn to compete.

Good luck.

Ps: get a trainer who doesn’t blame you and can actually help you have fun and control your dog. You’ve done nothing wrong- you have a high drive dog.

[Evelyne]

I would like to thank all the persons who take time to answer (and ++ Val for your last remark)

I try to get all your advices, take care and try to calm the dog….

I also learn to be dog educator next september.

Bye

E JC