[Amy]

My GSD mix had a similar problem out on walks. She would put her nose to the ground and try to drag me along or dash off after whatever moved. I Eventually purchased a gentle leader. Robert does not recommend them but it worked for me. Now when my dog has a relapse and forgets that trying to drag me, despite getting corrected, is not acceptable I put the gentle leader back on. She is now 70lb and we live in a large city so there are always people and other dogs around when we go for a walk.

[K2V2]

Thanks. I will look into it –

[Ed]

I would still ask Robert on the AMA, perhaps he will have an alternate solution. Robert’s concern is that the gentle leader type leashes can cause cervical problems because of the way they transmit forces to the neck of the dog. If you do decide to go in that direction, perhaps have a shorter leash (4 feet) so that the dog has less room to gather speed before hitting the end of the leash.

[Ed]

You have tried a lot of things, so perhaps make the walks way shorter, like 10 mins. Perhaps that will generate less frustration, allow you to be at your best in managing the dog, and allow the dog to absorb things better. Similarly to how we have short training sessions as opposed to long ones. So treat the walk not as a walk but as a short (10 mins) training session. Doing it in a place with zero distractions, like the end of a big box store parking lot, away from people, and away from smells from grass and other creatures.

[K2V2]

This is great advice- thanks.

[Riggan]

Your frustration and concern comes through clearly in your post. A few things to consider. First of all, if you do try the gentle leader, do NOT use it with your dog on a long line, or even at the end of a 6 foot leash. This is where the cervical injuries come from. Just think about the whiplash that can be caused by hitting the end of the leash and having your head jerked around. The canine neck structure is far more closely related to a human’s than to a horse’s. Find someone knowledgeable about the fitting, training and use of a GL before trying it.

Next, it seems like you need to take a few steps back and reassess your approach. You might try spending some time teaching the dog to offer attention to you. Start this in the home without any distractions. Have him on a relatively short leash (4-6′) and just stand there. Don’t make it an “obedience” exercise – he can be in a sit, down or standing. Initially, he will most likely be looking around at “stuff.” The instant he turns his head to you, say “Yes!” and treat. You are not saying anything to get his attention. Just waiting for him to offer it. He will start looking at you more often and quickly since there are no real distractions at this stage. If you start feeling like a Pez dispenser handing our treats, you are on the right track. As he starts catching on to the fun new game, you want him to start making eye contact with you. What you are teaching him is that looking to you is ALWAYS a good thing!

Then gradually start moving into areas with more distractions. Don’t try to go too fast. If he is unable to break his attention from whatever is around him within a minute or two, you might be getting into too high a distraction environment. The most common mistake people make when doing this is that they miss the moment when the dog starts to break off attention from the external stimulations and turn it to you. Watch him closely, and AS SOON AS he starts to turn to you, reward him. If you absolutely need to, you can try clucking with your tongue or making some other noise to encourage him to focus on you, but this should be a rare exception. Eventually you want the eye contact, but don’t expect this immediately, especially if there are distractions. Each time you move to a new place, expect that it will take a while for him to look toward you the first time, but with practice he will remember and re-engage in the game faster and faster. Be sure you have lots of little, tiny treats when you do this since you will be going through them quickly!

Once you feel he has a reasonable grasp on the game, you can start incorporating it into your walks. Walk for 5-10 minutes and then stop. Do a few minutes of the offer-attention game and then start walking again. Repeat at multiple points during the walk. What you are teaching the dog is that YOU can be just as interesting as the rest of the world out there and that paying attention to you is a good thing. Now you have him in a place where he is able to learn. It sounds like right now he is so stimulated by everything around him that you become almost non-existent. In this condition, he has no ability to learn anything, so the first step in changing the picture is to get him to a point where he can refocus on you.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

[K2V2]

Thank you (all) for the help. I have read a lot, and (re)watched a number of videos in the last day or two – and I think I have a better idea of how I am going wrong. First, after reading more – I definitely don’t think the gentle leader is for us, Levi is a big dog, and only getting bigger. We also live in a high distraction environment. It is not at all uncommon for us to walk by deer, elk, other dogs etc all on one walk. Additionally we have to walk directly on the street frequently before we can get to any trail which means the cars are going by right next to us. He is about 95% better with the jumping/diving at cars etc but I think it would go very very poorly if he did that to any degree with the gentle leader on. I have to hold him very close for his safety already. Additionally, when we are on trails I can’t control when the deer, rabbits etc go by and sometimes we just can’t help but be excited – after all Dinner is literally running by. So, I definitely think we need more training, and less expectations just walking. He walks just fine in a empty parking lot, that’s just not where we are 90%+ of the time. I also realize that I don’t address the pulling until he is already doing it. I watched a video Robert did yesterday about consistently turning before the leash is tight and I definitely need to work on that. Thank you all again for the help, we will work on this for the next month and see how it goes.

[K2V2]

We definitely have lots of distractions 😜

[Riggan]

LOL – no wonder he can’t control himself!

[K2V2]

He was ~ 9weeks old here. This was actually way way more serious than I realized at the time. That Elk mare came gradually all the way down the hill to us while he and I were just hanging out on the deck relaxing. I thought she was maybe just curious, which I thought was “cute” – nope, definitely NOT cute. So I am just sitting there watching. Bad Bad Move on my part. She gets right to that close tree directly in front of him and I, and he just sits down, head tilted, trying to figure out what in the world she is. ……And then she tries to full on charge him. No lie. She was trying to stomp on him – except of course that I come flying out of my chair at her and I am immediately between her and Levi. I literally chase her back up the hill, Levi – brave little soul, stays right at my side all the way up the hill, barking. Not Good. In retrospect, this was just like Nat Geo where the wildebeest attack the really young lion Cubs when they find their den. Sheesh. I am such an idiot for letting that happen, I just had no idea. She never got near him, but needless to say – we respect the Elk, but we don’t like them, and they are definitely NOT allowed in the yard. 🤪. This is right up there with me trying to walk him to the mailbox one night, right past some yearling bear Cubs on our driveway and me not understanding why he is suddenly acting so completely squirrel-y. He of course can smell them, and has far far better night vision than I do – so he knows how colossally stupid I am being. I pay WAY MORE attention to his cues now. I might be a little thick, but I can be taught.

[Gerard]

Riggan , I always like your answers .

I agree it looks like going back to the basics in a controlled environment is what this dog needs .