[Lynn]

Hi Daisy,

I have heard Robert say that he uses a bark collar in his own dog to stop her barking in the car. That way the collar corrects the dog so you don’t have to.

I believe there is a video on this site on how to condition the dog to the bark collar .

Not sure if you use a crate for your dog when traveling in the car, but using one helps keep them from having the option of jumping from seat to seat and getting more worked up.

If you search the AMA videos here…someone else has asked that question as well.

Good luck & keep us posted.

Lynn

PS beautiful dog..😁

[Gene]

Agree with what Lynn has posted. I am not aware of another way to approach this issue. It is either the crate or the use of a bark collar. Robert had an issue with Mia when she was younger and he used a bark collar.

[Jesse]

You can try the bark collar, it’s a tool, and if you want to approach it that way then it’s available. I don’t believe it will work in a situation of high reactivity and lack of obedience, unless it is stimulating enough to overwhelm the issue, which seems kind of like using a hammer on a screw. Will it work? Sure if you hit it hard enough, but there are more forces at play which require a more sophisticated approach. Do what what you have to if that’s all you can do but it’s not the best method. The best method is going to be long and hard, which is to take the approach of training, using behavioral psychology to condition new behaviors. The collar just uses a punishment to discourage a behavior. To use the book 1984 as an example, shock someone enough times and they’ll tell you 2+2=5 out of fear and compliance. But what big brother wants is for you to believe that 2+2 really does equal 5. Any behavioral modification program should be shooting for the latter. Back to the basics, conditioning from a distance and redirecting/punishment towards low level stimulus like a perk of the ears, not up close under full reaction. During the training period you can never go backwards, and never put them in a situation that they aren’t mature and trained enough to handle, which will create inconsistency and failure in the training. This means that if you can’t control the situation, the pup shouldn’t be there. This will probably take many many months, developing your approach and the scenarios you use to train on a weekly basis, if not more, as you evaluate the next appropriate step during their progression. I put probably 2 hours in every day for 10 months with my Dutch Shepherd in order to get her to not be reactive, and now she’s perfectly neutral…but it was a rough time. The differences in approach will be seen in the way other behaviors manifest themselves in other situations. Every approach has it’s consequences or benefits, even if the primary issue is solved to your liking.

If you don’t have the time to train, maybe the collar will work, for now, in the context he associates the negative experience it with. But it won’t give you the same behaviors and personality/relationship a dog will exhibit if they were trained the “right” way, which is to say with modern behavioral psychology. That is just my humble opinion. At the end of the day you have to do something, so the collar is better than inaction. Good luck

[Katrin]

Hi, I Think there are always different ways to work on a problem. I would prefere using a crate and a cover up, so the dog can not see whats outside. This is not a problem that I would put effort in training on it, if there is no problem with barking and aggressiv behaviour outside the car.

I do not 100% trust in bark collers, becaues there are dogs, that just do not understand them and than you can get trouble with her getting into the car or something else. If you use a bark coller, I would use an E-coller first and train the dog barking means stim gets on and quiet means stim gets of.

[Shawn]

With Suzy Q I decided to get one of those ultrasonic gadgets looks like a flashlight has two settings One is alternating and the other is solid sound wave. When she would bark obsessively at the front door or go running I would hit it and she would come. And I would tell her no. When she barks out the back. Of my place where I don’t want people to be. And I want her to alert me to anybody creeping back there around our apartment building. I did that to get hurt the tension. Eventually I started commending her for her barking but telling her no. Or petting her to let her know that was enough or saying something to signal that’s enough I hear you and I see. And it’s worked pretty well. I almost never have to use the ultrasonic tool anymore. Now when she goes towards the front or goes to bark I say no get over here. I used it basically to train her using it with a negative reinforcement for a positive outcome. I hope you understand what I’m saying it is kind of little wackadoodle. But basically I do commend her sometimes for the front door letting me know someone’s there. And I commend her always for the back letting me know someone’s there even if someone isn’t there and she’s just barking because she thinks someone’s there but I don’t give her treats for those things that way she doesn’t start to do it just to get a treat. I apologize for a day incoherent feeling of what I’m saying but I hope you understand. Basically you might try the ultrasonic thing Don’t use it too much You don’t want them to get used to it. Switch back and forth between the two settings of alternating and solids ultrasound. And maybe even try a command by thanking them energy and a pet on the head and no down sit lay whatever it is to get them to stop at that point once they have stopped to stay stopped. Using the lay down the set another command to get them to do something different that isn’t a correction in the sense of a discipline but a correction in course.

[Shawn]

I did research on each one but the best one I thought was reasonably priced I never buy too low. When you spend low you get low when you get reasonable you get good. Basically the motto I have is if it’s on sale and it’s got a good price down from a higher price and I’ve done my research on the product I get it. If the normal price is too low it may be because the product is not that good. So where’s the ultrasonic thing I got this one from Amazon it has three buttons One is a high-pitch beep which I use sometimes One is an ultrasonic that has two settings and one is a flashlight plus with the ultrasonic it does flash a special light separate from the flashlight. I even use it when walking her sometimes instead of having her educator e-caller. Just remember you can’t overuse this thing your best buddy could get used to it from what I understand.

[Shawn]

https://a.co/d/gwNJ9Sx

[Shawn]

Sorry one last thing I use my educator e-collar in an already trained to do something manner the way Robert and others teach. In other words they’re already trained to do something and they’re not doing it because of drive. So in the lowest possible stim setting that she responds to like a tap on the shoulder hey listen to me stim. Plus the coller I have also has vibration which I try to use the most before going shock and it has a beep setting with beep right in their ear And for in case of emergencies and I need her to sit stay or come because there’s an aggressive dog or she wants to be aggressive I have a special button to stop her fight mode with a much higher stim setting but not too high I tested out on myself. Plus I learn her responses. I also had to use the technique to shave a little hair in the area I put the contact points by her ear on her neck.