Member Ed
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We use Fetch, formally PetPlan. We put in claims and were reimbursed as expected. I got insurance for my dogs the day I got them. I presume the preconditions would not be covered, and thinks like elbows and hips have a grace period that may be waved if your vet attests that the dog has no issues. As is the case with all tru insurance you pay in a lot more than you use. The insurance is there in case you have a really major incident, or to give you the option to pursue treatment without trying to figure out where you are going to come up with the money to pay it. A surgery done by your local vet will probably amount to $1500 to $2000 including the initial visit, tests, the surgery itself and the medicine. A procedure that needs to be done at a medical center will likely be upwards of $5000. Prices will vary depending on the condition, where you live, etc. Pet insurance usually does not cover wellness visits, vaccinations, spaying, neutering, and other preventive stuff.
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You have tried a lot of things, so perhaps make the walks way shorter, like 10 mins. Perhaps that will generate less frustration, allow you to be at your best in managing the dog, and allow the dog to absorb things better. Similarly to how we have short training sessions as opposed to long ones. So treat the walk not as a walk but as a short (10 mins) training session. Doing it in a place with zero distractions, like the end of a big box store parking lot, away from people, and away from smells from grass and other creatures.
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I would still ask Robert on the AMA, perhaps he will have an alternate solution. Robert’s concern is that the gentle leader type leashes can cause cervical problems because of the way they transmit forces to the neck of the dog. If you do decide to go in that direction, perhaps have a shorter leash (4 feet) so that the dog has less room to gather speed before hitting the end of the leash.
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I think you can do it. If he sees you as the leader he will have no trouble being off the bed when you sleep and on the bed when you allow him or when the bed is empty. That is almost like my dogs do it, other than when I wake up often times one of them is in the corner of the bed taking as little space as a 100lb dog can manage LOL. Which I like/allow. Where I think you may have trouble is if he is not allowed in the bed when it is empty because (I think) it will not make sense to him. If you do not want him in bed when the bed is empty I think never allowing him in bed in the first place would be more fair. The dinette is in a different location and looks very different from a bed. I think he will have no trouble understanding that those are different things. Each dog is different, but I think that is a very reasonable ask. I do not have any tips on how to do that, I think it is one of those things that you just do, no treats, no luring. I’m not sure if there is a video lesson on boundaries, but if there is it may help. Good luck!!
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Reposting as I lost my edits… on the bed situation, one other possibility is that it is a status thing. So if someone has claimed the bed they only come when invited. However, if no one is on the bed they can claim it themselves. That may be a better explanation than “function”. Still that may not work for you since an empty sofa is an unclaimed sofa. Perhaps you can elaborate a bit more on what you are looking to achieve with the on/off furniture?
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Welcome aboard. I would establish and enforce the rules the day he sets foot on the home. In general you want to go from less freedom to more freedom. On the on and off the furniture, it may be confusing to the dog that sometimes he is allowed in the furniture and sometimes he is not. I’m not quite sure how I would “explain” that to mine in a way that would not seem arbitrary… perhaps if these are different prices of furniture (bed vs couch) or different functions (sleeping in bed vs letting him hang out on the bed when you are awake in the morning, getting dressed, etc)… One option is to never allow him on the furniture and when you want to cuddle or play you sit on the floor (with your back resting on the sofa). That works very well for us, well they are still allowed on the furniture, but when I sit on the floor it is a love fest. Hope it helps!
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For mine too, pooping and peeing were/are separate and distinct activities. When I house trained them they learned one before the other. My 6 mo pup strangely enough poops and pees in the middle of the road. We are walking and all the sudden he just puts the brakes on and takes a dump. 😂
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You are correct the place and implicit stay are different. Robert teaches the stay as implicit. So you say “sit” and the dog remains in that position until released. Then release and reward. The implicit stay is for a particular position… sit, stand, down. It is for a shorter amount of time as the dog is working (remaining in that position) till released. The place asks for the dog go to and remain in a location, but does not ask for a specific posture. The reward is given while the dog is remaining in that location. Once the place is over you release the dog and there is no additional reward other than the release itself. You can check the perfect sit video lesson for the implicit stay and the place part 1 video lesson for the place. The crate is going to be a great tool. He is gonna have those spurs of energy and there is really no way to curb that other than the crate.
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Oh. At 3 months it may not be realistic to expect her to stay in the “place” location, not sure about invisible barriers either. The crate would be the easy, less conflict, less stress, solution for a young pup.
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Yes. It is kind of manipulating their body without physical contact by moving yours accordingly. Welcome aboard!