[Ed]

For mine too, pooping and peeing were/are separate and distinct activities. When I house trained them they learned one before the other. My 6 mo pup strangely enough poops and pees in the middle of the road. We are walking and all the sudden he just puts the brakes on and takes a dump. 😂

[Ed]

You are correct the place and implicit stay are different. Robert teaches the stay as implicit. So you say “sit” and the dog remains in that position until released. Then release and reward. The implicit stay is for a particular position… sit, stand, down. It is for a shorter amount of time as the dog is working (remaining in that position) till released. The place asks for the dog go to and remain in a location, but does not ask for a specific posture. The reward is given while the dog is remaining in that location. Once the place is over you release the dog and there is no additional reward other than the release itself. You can check the perfect sit video lesson for the implicit stay and the place part 1 video lesson for the place. The crate is going to be a great tool. He is gonna have those spurs of energy and there is really no way to curb that other than the crate.

[Ed]

A lot of different questions, I would ask Robert in the AMA. With us at 3 month Vlad would climb onto the dining room table and attempt to counter surf. I would remove him physically, tell him “off” and use spatial pressure. With the invisible barriers (kitchen), I just tell him to stay back and either push him back or use spatial pressure to move him back. It takes a few repetitions. I never taught “place”, they only know to go where I point, but there is no permanence. I’m now thinking of teaching place to increase drive and recall. Robert has a great lesson on place (the part 1 video). On your son I would claim him. So every time the dog approaches him I would remove the dog if necessary and use spacial pressure to create an invisible barrier between the dog and him. I like to remove/move the dog with my hands or legs as opposed to the leash, but I don’t really have an explanation as to why I prefer that. Maybe someone can discuss both options. I kind think touch is more organic/dog-like. It is a lot of stuff, but I’m sure that if you break it into individual pieces it will be manageable and you will have a lot of success!

EDIT: whenever I give a negative feedback to the dig I try to remember to praise as soon as he complies, which could be simply stop trying to get back on the counter at that moment.

[Ed]

I would use “off” as a command for the dog to stay away from your son. Same for the counter, same for jumping on people, same for mounting another dog. I think the way Robert uses the “no” is to mean “this is your last chance to do what you already know how to do” before a correction.

[Ed]

Better pics

[Ed]

I want to be able to see their ribs when they breathe and they should have a very tucked in waste. If they start to get fat, I reduce the main meal intake by 15-20%. I do not stop cookies, extras, or the food during training. Though we may break up a cookie in two and give them only 1/2 🙂

I had my girl let go, so she went in a diet and lost a lot of weight. Puppies will look skinny when their weight is right. They fill up later. Here is my 6 mo

[Ed]

That is very brave of you to ask for comments :). I would also look at Robert’s videos and contrast and compare. My experience is limited to my own dogs and I kind of did it for a week or two and we were onto other things. So… I gave the dog more room, both in terms of leash length and the time between iterations, like a 15 ft leash and let the dog use all of it. I tried to have the leash always lose up to until the very moment the dog reached the end of it. I did the walking backwards facing the dog, as opposed to sideways, and moving backwards fast, kinda running, so that the dog was really chasing me back. I would run backwards 20 to 50 feet, mostly because it is so much fun to have the puppy chase you — though I had a 30 ft leash for that. That dog looks looks very happy, that is awesome!!

[Ed]

It sounds like you have a great puppy that is active and loves to engage with you. The crate helps he learn to settle and prevents him from getting into trouble, and it helps you to manage him. I would play with the puppy often. When it is not time to play and when he is getting too much to handle have him back in the crate. I would also get him those huge knuckle bones so that he has something to do. I would not admonish the puppy thought… that is also what the crate will prevent you from doing. You can check on YouTube videos where lion cubs annoy the heck out of their parents. That is just what puppies do. They experiment, engage, test, etc. Sounds like the couch thing is him playing/engaging. I would not say “no” to him… I think it is too much to expect that he will be able to realize what you mean or even control himself out of a word at this age. I would pick him up, give him a kiss while he tries to bite my face off, put him in the crate, and give him a frozen banana or a bone.

[Ed]

Oh. At 3 months it may not be realistic to expect her to stay in the “place” location, not sure about invisible barriers either. The crate would be the easy, less conflict, less stress, solution for a young pup.

[Ed]

Yes. It is kind of manipulating their body without physical contact by moving yours accordingly. Welcome aboard!