[melvin]

My working GSD puppy wouldn’t bring the tug back and was very much interested in possessing the item (more than the interactive play part). It took me a while to get her back!!!

Some prerequisite:

– A solid “OUT” command that works both while tugging and away from you (drop it).

Here are a few things you can try:

– Always finish the game away from you.

– Teach a cue (coupled with light leash taps): when the dog turns mark and reward with a game of tug. Practice until a very strong response to the cue/leash tap. Then you can use this cue when the dog has the toy to come back to you.

– Tug only a little (3sec) and not too strong.

– Never reach to grab the toy.

– You can try getting on the ground / running away from the dog.

– Attach a string to the toy so that you can both possess the toy at the same time.

– Pushing the dog away from you makes him want to come back more.

– Keep your body back and don’t show that you intend to take the toy from your body language.

Remember: your goal is that the dog understands that it is FUN to play with you, much more fun than keep the toy.

[melvin]

Amazing that your dog stood up to you in this way and saved your lives!!

My story is a little less dramatic: during the morning training, my little female working GSD started barking like crazy at a closed locker room on an open soccer field, it was 6 a.m. and still fairly dark outside. The locker was about 30/40 meters from where we stood.

She was only 4 mo at the time and I told her to shut up!

10min later, a strange and aggressive guy came out of the locker, and she had already sensed that he was behind that door from far away… The guy finally left away without incident.

It is amazing what instincts and acute senses they have, just unbelievable.

[melvin]

I had a similar problem with my GSD puppy around food, but disclaimer, as said earlier, each dog is different. It seems to be a consensus in the community that this is in part due to genetics.

My dog would guard around the food bowl and right after feeding (tail high); also bones and anything food-related.

For the food: If I have to get near the food bowl, I only do so with food of equal or higher value to offer, showing her that I am not interested to take it away from her. She is also eating most of her food during training (either formal or informal/common good manners). Now it is much better and it is *manageable*: I don’t think this goes away fully (due to the genetic component, it seems that the dog is still in a strange mental space in that particular situation) and you have to keep this in mind and avoid the triggers, particularly if other people handle your dog at some point.

One other thing that seemed to help to calm her down with food is to include tracking in her training routine. The dog needs to focus and use its nose, helping her relax around food. You could do this also with simple article indication at home.

With objects, I never had the issue, but I have to say that we tug daily and the play relationship is highly engrained in her, which might be helping with objects.

[melvin]

Try cutting the strings of your toy.

Also, if you have a puppy/young dog, use a softer tug. Your dog could be sticking to the rope because it is easier to hold (and might indicate that the tug is too hard at the moment)

[melvin]

– Train in low arousal states, if you tug hard this only dials the dog more into the tug

– Tug for 3 seconds, then pause and completely immobilize the toy, once the dog outs (which he will eventually), mark and give the toy back immediately

– once you immobilize the tug and the dog outs by himself, you are ready to put the out voice command

– once your dog understands the out command well, you can use corrections at that stage for non-compliance

IMPORTANT: never out and get the toy away quickly (stealing the tug), this only makes him want the toy even more.

You can also try to out him at a distance from you and alternate between outing in your hand and further from you.

Depending on how much history of non-outing the dog had, this may require some patience.

[melvin]

Hi Claudia,

If you are committed to putting your emotions aside and you have ended up with a super high drive dog, I think you can try the following:

– For training: Join a working dog club with experienced trainers who will know how to handle a high drive dog.

– For home: STRUCTURE & MANAGEMENT, 100% of the time. Buy a crate, an expen, and have a clear plan as to potty time / training / food. No free/unplanned time until you get this under controle. Your home is your home, if you find the peace of mind and clarity to think and execute in your home then you might find a path 🙂

Good lucK!

[melvin]

Another thing that comes to my mind: acting. When you are playing tug, make her feel super strong and when she finally gets the tug, you can act like you are falling on the ground etc…

With mine, I felt that she loved winning in that way, built he confidence and it incentivized her to come back to win again (and play more vigorously).

[melvin]

The first step is making sure that she doesn’t think for some reason that you want to take it away from her.

[melvin]

With patience and trying things differently she will come for sure 🙂 my pleasure if I can help

[melvin]

IMHO 4 months old is out of the question, particularly for play behaviors.

There are many things you can try to teach the dog to come back during fetch, like teaching a place bed and waiting on the place bed with food; Playing food trow games/running away from the dog; Or back chaining with tugging for instance.

In this context I would use corrections only in terminal behaviors such as formal retrieve, or problems with outing the toy. And this is at a much later stage once the dog really knows the game and is motivated to play. The whole concept of play is an interactive game between you and the dog, it should be a fun activity for both of you.

In general, also note that the e collar should be properly conditioned and leash pressure usually comes before conditioning the e collar.